Austria in Layers: How ÖTW Defines the Character of Its Vineyards

Posted by Rowena Dumlao Rowena Dumlao - Giardina 10/24/2025

Austria in Layers: How ÖTW Defines the Character of Its Vineyards

From the Danube Valley to Burgenland and beyond, a tasting of 560 ÖTW Erste Lagen wines reveals how Austria’s vineyards express their landscapes, histories, and identities in every glass.

Austria’s wine country may seem small on the map, but it contains worlds within it. From river valleys carved millions of years ago to sunlit terraces of loess and limestone, each landscape shapes its own story in the glass. Holding these stories together is ÖTW – Österreichische Traditionsweingüter (Austrian Traditional Wine Estates), a collective of winemakers dedicated to identifying and protecting the nation’s most expressive vineyards. Their mission is to help drinkers, whether novices or experts, understand Austria not just as a place, but as a mosaic of terroirs — each layered with history, geology, and the quiet work of the vine.

Through ÖTW’s classification system, Austria’s wines are organized like chapters in a book: Gebietswein (regional wines) offer a broad introduction to a region’s style; Ortswein (village wines) reflect the character of a specific community; and Riedenwein (single-vineyard wines) capture the most detailed, purest expression of place. Within this hierarchy, Erste Lagen (First Site) represents the pinnacle — vineyards recognized for exceptional terroir, long-standing tradition, and consistent excellence, Austria’s answer to the concept of Premier Cru.

Each September, in the stunning grounds of Grafenegg Castle, Austria’s top vineyards gather under the ÖTW Erste Lagen banner to showcase their best expressions. This year’s tasting featured 560 wines from across the country, including both Erste Lagen and exceptional wines from other territories such as Südsteiermark, Vulkanland Steiermark, Leithaberg, Eisenberg, and Wachau. From the crystalline Rieslings and peppery Grüner Veltliners of the Danube Valley to the structured reds of Burgenland and the aromatic whites of Styria, the tasting revealed the remarkable depth, balance, and identity that define Austria’s finest vineyards today.

In the sections that follow, I explore each region — both ÖTW Erste Lagen and selected outside territories — highlighting the distinct personality and expression each brings to Austria’s wine scene.

Weinviertel: Fresh, Mineral, and Expressive

Weinviertel, Austria’s largest wine region, stretches across the northern plains, characterized by loess soils and a cool, continental climate. While Grüner Veltliner dominates, producing crisp, peppery, and aromatic wines, Riesling and other varieties also thrive in select sites, often showing minerality, stone fruit, and floral notes.

A highlight from the tasting, Ried Karlsberg 1 ÖTW Niederösterreich Riesling 2023 from Weingut Liechtenstein, displayed subtle petrol notes on the nose, hints of pineapple syrup and passionfruit, and a palate where the petrol and stone character persisted alongside vibrant acidity — a beautifully precise and expressive Riesling from the region.

Weinviertel’s Erste Lagen wines demonstrate the ÖTW philosophy of single-vineyard expression: clarity, balance, and an unmistakable sense of place. Whether Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, or other varietals, the wines reflect the region’s freshness, mineral backbone, and approachable elegance.

Kamptal: Where Rivers Carve Time and Vines Find Voice

If Austrian wine had a heartbeat, it might sound like the gentle flow of the river Kamp through the valley that bears its name. Just northwest of Vienna, Kamptal is one of Austria’s most celebrated regions, centered on Langenlois, Austria’s largest wine-producing town. Vineyards sit atop layers of loess, clay, and primary rock, shaping wines that reflect both freshness and mineral precision. Here, Grüner Veltliner and Riesling reign supreme, expressing the local dialect of soil, climate, and tradition. Villages like Zöbing, Gobelsburg, Kammern, Straß, and Schönberg each contribute subtle nuances, while the Kamptal DAC label ensures balance, purity, and — from 2025 onward — certified organic or Sustainable Austria wines.

Kamptal’s Erste Lagen wines reveal a clear regional style: Rieslings often show petrol and mineral notes, yellow pulp, and vibrant acidity, with persistent, elegant finishes. Notable examples include Ried Gaisberg 2023 from Weingut Dolle, Ried Gaisberg 2022 from In Vino Weix Weixelbaum, Ried Heiligenstein 2022 from Weix Weixelbaum, Ried Heiligenstein 2020 from Weszeli, as well as the Ried Heilingenstein 2023 bottlings from Schloss Gobelsburg and Jurtschitsch, and Ried Heiligenstein 2024 from Allrad. These wines range from concentrated and complex to delicate and floral, yet all share a tension and elegance characteristic of the valley. The Ried Lamm 2024 Grüner Veltliner from Weingut Brandl stands out with a refined floral nose and a balanced, aromatic palate featuring hints of mint and sage.

Kamptal illustrates the progression from broad regional (Gebietswein) wines to village (Ortswein) expressions and, at its peak, single-vineyard (Riedenwein) marked by the ÖTW Erste Lage seal. Each sip carries a sense of time and terrain, echoing the quiet persistence of the river Kamp — a living dialogue between land, climate, and tradition.

Kremstal: Between River and Stone

Just south of Kamptal, Kremstal stretches along the Danube, where vineyards climb gently from the river toward stony hills. The region feels like a natural continuation of Kamptal, yet its wines reveal a softer, more rounded voice. The river’s moderating influence brings warmth by day and cool air at night, allowing grapes to ripen slowly and evenly. The result is wines that are generous but never heavy, precise yet approachable for anyone discovering Austrian wine for the first time.

Grüner Veltliner and Riesling dominate, with Grüner showing fruit-forward, floral, and gently spiced notes, while Riesling displays ripe stone fruit, delicate florals, and a clear mineral thread. Soils of loess, gravel, and primary rock contribute richness, structure, and tension. The principal town, Krems an der Donau, is one of Austria’s oldest wine centers, where medieval lanes wind between historic cellars.

Tasting Kremstal’s Erste Lagen highlighted the region’s elegance and finesse. The most standout wine was Ried Goldberg Rehberg 1 ÖTW 2024 Riesling from Weingut Martin Nigl, with an expressive, layered nose of tea leaves, dried flowers, and subtle ripe pineapple, and a thin, elegant palate carrying persistent freshness. Other notable Rieslings included Ried Kogl 2023 from Weingut Malat, Ried Wachtberg 2024 from Weingut Turk, Ried Weinzierlberg 2023 from Weingut Aigner, and Ried Hinters Kirchl 2023 from Petra Unger, all showing Kremstal’s signature balance of minerality, fruit, and delicate floral or spicy notes.

These wines illustrate the progression from regional (Gebietswein) to village (Ortswein) and peak single-vineyard (Riedenwein) expressions marked by the ÖTW Erste Lage seal, each carrying the distinct personality of Kremstal — approachable, elegant, and precise, with mineral clarity and vibrant freshness.

Photo by ÖTW / Manu Grafenauer

Traisental: Precision in a Small Valley

Austria’s smallest DAC region, Traisental, lies just west of Kremstal, a narrow valley framed by gentle hills and terraces. Despite its size, the region produces wines of remarkable clarity and precision. The soils are a mix of loess, gravel, and primary rock, giving both Grüner Veltliner and Riesling their signature mineral tension and focused structure.

The valley’s cool nights and sunny days allow grapes to ripen slowly, producing wines that are lean, expressive, and elegantly balanced. Grüner Veltliner often shows subtle spice and bright citrus, while Riesling offers delicate floral aromas, yellow pulp notes, and a crisp, stony finish. A highlight from the tasting, Ried Pletzengraben 1 ÖTW Traisental DAC Riesling 2024 from Weingut Tom Docker, displayed almost crispy yellow pulp, white florals, bright acidity, and a long, persistent finish — a perfect example of the region’s refined style.

Though small, Traisental exemplifies the ÖTW Erste Lagen philosophy: clear expression of site, meticulous vineyard and cellar work, and wines that reflect both tradition and quiet elegance. Even a single standout Riesling demonstrates the valley’s precision and balance, making it a rewarding region for both newcomers and connoisseurs alike.

Photo by ÖTW / Manu Grafenauer

Wagram: Sun, Loess, and Structure

Lying on the terraces north of the Danube, Wagram is defined by its loess soils, which give the region’s wines richness, aromatic intensity, and a distinctive texture. The rolling hills and elevated sites allow for excellent sun exposure, producing grapes that are ripe yet balanced, with wines that combine generosity with precision. Grüner Veltliner, Roter Veltliner, and Riesling dominate, often showing floral and stone fruit notes, lifted by subtle spice and vibrant acidity.

Roter Veltliner is a traditional Austrian white grape, entirely unrelated to Grüner Veltliner, known for producing full-bodied, textured wines with aromatic depth and excellent ageing potential. Some of the country’s best expressions of Roter Veltliner are found in Wagram, where the region’s loess soils and warm terraces allow the grape to fully develop its complexity.

The tasting highlighted Wagram’s clarity and structure. Ried Mordthal 1 ÖTW Wagram DAC Riesling 2023 from Weinberghof Fritsch showed aromas of wood, flint, and light petrol, with bright acidity and a persistent, mineral-driven finish. From Roter Veltliner, Ried Steinberg 1 ÖTW Wagram DAC Roter Veltliner 2024 from Weingut Josef Fritz offered delicate gassy minerals, subtle malolactic notes, excellent acidity, and a long, persistent finish — a wine with real ageing potential. These wines exemplify Wagram’s signature: expressive yet structured, reflecting both the richness of loess and the subtle stony minerality beneath.

Wagram’s Erste Lagen wines demonstrate how soil, exposure, and meticulous vineyard work come together to produce wines that are approachable yet sophisticated. They embody the ÖTW philosophy of single-vineyard expression — a balance of place, tradition, and precision.

Wien: City Terroir with Distinct Character

Though Austria’s capital may seem an unlikely wine region, Wien boasts steep, terraced vineyards within the city and along its outskirts. Soils of loess and primary rock provide structure, while the urban climate, with warm days and cool nights, allows grapes to develop aromatic intensity and freshness. Grüner Veltliner and Riesling thrive here, expressing a unique combination of elegance, vibrancy, and subtle complexity.

A highlight from the tasting, Ried Preussen 1 ÖTW Wien Riesling 2024 from Weingut Mayer am Pfarrplatz und Rotes Haus, showed a floral nose with almost crispy yellow pulp, and subtle spices on the palate. This wine exemplifies Wien’s character: precise, lively, and expressive of its urban terroir.

Wien’s Erste Lagen wines demonstrate the ÖTW philosophy of single-vineyard expression: a reflection of soil, exposure, and careful vineyard work, producing wines that are distinctive, elegant, and approachable, yet full of personality.

Photo by ÖTW / Manu Grafenauer

Thermenregion: Austria’s Warm-Climate Whites

Located south of Vienna, the Thermenregion is known for its warm climate and unique terroir, producing full-bodied, aromatic whites that are distinct from Austria’s northern regions. Two signature indigenous grapes define the area: Rotgipfler, a rich and aromatic variety producing wines with structure, yellow fruit, floral notes, and a distinctive weight on the palate, and Zierfandler, often showing delicate yellow pulp, floral perfume, bright sapid acidity, and sometimes subtle nutty or almond nuances that add complexity and elegance.

Tasting the region’s Erste Lagen wines highlighted both varieties’ expressive potential. Ried Wiege 1 ÖTW 2023 Rotgipfler from Leo Aumann showed a floral, powerful yellow-fruit character, with a balanced palate corresponding to the nose. Ried Rodauner 1 ÖTW 2024 Rotgipfler offered elderflower, pear, and apple notes, with acidity that carries through the finish. From Zierfandler, Ried Mandel-Hoh 1 ÖTW 2024 from Weingut Stadlmann showed concentrated yellow pulp on the nose, a grassy, sapid palate, and lingering acidity — a precise expression of the variety’s elegance.

The Thermenregion demonstrates how Austria’s warmer southern valleys produce whites with both richness and freshness. These wines embody the ÖTW Erste Lage philosophy, expressing the distinctive character of site, grape, and careful vineyard management, offering elegance, balance, and personality unique to this region.

Carnuntum: Austria’s Red Heartland

Situated southeast of Vienna along the Danube, Carnuntum is a region increasingly celebrated for its red wines, though Grüner Veltliner and Riesling are also grown. The region’s warm climate, long sun exposure, and diverse soils — including clay, gravel, and loam — allow grapes to develop both ripeness and freshness.

Carnuntum is particularly known for red varieties, especially Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch, and St. Laurent. Zweigelt produces vibrant, fruity reds with soft tannins, bright cherry and berry flavors, and a rounded, approachable style. Blaufränkisch is more structured and tannic, offering dark berry fruits, peppery spice, and age-worthy potential, while St. Laurent adds aromatic complexity, often with floral notes, supple tannins, and juicy fruit. These reds demonstrate a balance between ripeness, freshness, and elegance, reflecting Carnuntum’s sunny sites and careful vineyard management.

Even without specific single-vineyard tasting, Carnuntum’s wines clearly illustrate the ÖTW philosophy: wines that express the distinct character of site and grape, with both approachability and depth, and a strong sense of regional identity.

Beyond the ÖTW Erste Lagen

While the ÖTW Erste Lagen classification officially covers the Danube and eastern regions, Austria’s story of terroir-driven excellence extends far beyond. Regions such as Südsteiermark, Vulkanland Steiermark, Leithaberg, Eisenberg, and Wachau share the same commitment to site expression, often through their own regional systems of vineyard classification and identity. Together, they complete the mosaic of Austrian fine wine.

Südsteiermark: Elegant, Characterful Sauvignon Blanc

In the rolling hills of southern Styria, Südsteiermark is renowned for its Sauvignon Blanc, producing wines that balance freshness, mineral tension, and subtle aromatic complexity. The region’s cool, elevated vineyards and slate-loess soils temper the typical exuberance of the variety, creating wines that are refined, precise, and expressive of terroir. Chardonnay and Rheinriesling also feature, adding diversity to the region’s white wine portfolio.

At this year’s tasting, twelve wines stood out as exemplary expressions of the region’s style. Sauvignon Blancs such as Ried Possnitzberg Alte Reben 2022 (Erwin Sabathi), Ried Kapellenweingarten 2023 (Familienweingut Sattlerhof), Ried Sernauberg 2023 (Sattlerhof), Ried Grassnitzberg 2022 (Zement), Ried Zieren 2018 (Zement), Ried Theresienhöhe 2023 (Weingut Polz), Ried Schusterberg 2022 (Wolfgang Maitz), Ried Sausaler Schlossl 2023 (Wohlmuth), Ried Steinriegl 2023 (Wohlmuth), and Ried Edelschuh 2023 (Wohlmuth) displayed a delicate mix of floral and yellow pulp fruit, gentle herbaceous notes, and a crisp, persistent acidity.

Other whites, including Ried Possnitzberger Kapelle 2022 Chardonnay (Erwin Sabathi) and Ried Hochstermetzberg 2021 Rheinriesling (Wolfgang Maitz), added structure and complexity, showing stone-driven minerality, subtle petrol, and ripe citrus or yellow fruit on the palate. Collectively, these wines illustrate Südsteiermark’s hallmark: restraint, elegance, and a nuanced reflection of vineyard site, embodying the ÖTW philosophy of clarity, balance, and terroir-driven expression.

Vulkanland Steiermark: Aromatic Whites with Minerality

Vulkanland Steiermark, in southeastern Styria, is a region of volcanic soils and warm hillsides, producing aromatic and structured whites that reflect both grape variety and terroir. The signature grapes here include Sauvignon Blanc and Roter Traminer (Gewürztraminer), with wines showing freshness, minerality, and a distinctive textural depth.

Among the standout Erste Lagen wines, Ried Kapfenstein Kirchleiten 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Winkler-Hermaden) demonstrated exceptional evolution, retaining elegance, clean aromatics, and balanced acidity even after several years. Other notable Sauvignon Blancs, such as Ried Klausen 2023 (Neumeister), Ried Straden Rosenberg 2023 (Frauwallner), and Ried Buch 2023 (Frauwallner), showed a combination of mineral and herbal notes, subtle floral or musky hints, and persistent acidity. Aromatic Roter Traminer, exemplified by Ried Steintal 2023 (Neumeister) and Ried Kapfenstein Kirchleiten 2021 (Winkler-Hermaden), displayed lychee, rose, and sage nuances, with a refined palate that emphasizes terroir over varietal dominance.

Vulkanland Steiermark’s Erste Lagen wines exemplify the ÖTW philosophy: expressive, balanced, and reflective of site. The region’s volcanic soils, combined with careful vineyard management, create wines that are aromatic yet precise, mineral-driven yet approachable, and full of nuanced character.

Leithaberg: Elegance Through Time

The Leithaberg region, along the eastern shores of Lake Neusiedl, is known for its elegant whites and refined reds, with Grüner Veltliner and Riesling as signature varieties. The region’s soils — a mix of primary rock, limestone, and gravel — combined with cool lake-influenced climates, produce wines with finesse, minerality, and remarkable ageing potential.

Two standout older vintages from the tasting beautifully illustrated this evolution. Ried Backobel 2017 Leithaberg DAC Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Rudolf und Verena Kiss) displayed refined stone and mineral notes, subtle yellow pulp fruit, and a persistent, elegant mouthfeel. Similarly, Ried Jungenberg 2016 Leithaberg DAC Neubürger (Rudolf und Verena Kiss) showed expressive concentration, balanced acidity, and evolved mineral-driven complexity. Both wines highlight Leithaberg’s strength: producing elegant, structured wines that gain nuance and depth with age, reflecting the terroir and careful vineyard management.

Leithaberg’s Erste Lagen wines demonstrate the ÖTW philosophy of single-vineyard expression, showing how time can deepen character while preserving freshness and balance.

Eisenberg: Structured, Mineral-Driven Blaufränkisch

Located in southern Burgenland, Eisenberg is known for producing some of Austria’s most expressive Blaufränkisch wines. The region’s volcanic and slate soils give the reds pronounced minerality, bright acidity, and a balance of ripe fruit with structured tannins. Cool nights and warm days allow grapes to ripen evenly, producing wines that combine freshness, complexity, and elegance.

At this year’s tasting, four Blaufränkisch wines stood out for their precision and character. Ried Csaterberg 2022 (Weingut Stubits) offered red and blue berry aromas with herbal hints and balanced acidity. Ried Ratschen 2022 (Thom Wachter) showed subtle red fruits, white pepper, and sapid structure with light tannins. Ried Szapary Alter Garten 2022 (Thom Wachter) presented mineral-driven, fruit-forward notes with rosemary and pine nuances, while Ried Szapary 2022 (Weinbau Loeffler Winklhofer) balanced fruit, yeast, and mineral aromas with a supple, rounded mouthfeel.

Eisenberg’s Erste Lagen Blaufränkisch exemplifies the ÖTW philosophy: wines that clearly express their vineyard site, combining fruit, minerality, and elegance with the potential for both early enjoyment and careful ageing.

Wachau: Purity, Precision, and the Poetry of the Danube

Few regions capture the essence of Austrian Riesling like the Wachau, where terraced vineyards rise sharply from the Danube’s northern banks, carved into ancient primary rock. This UNESCO World Heritage landscape produces wines defined by clarity, minerality, and longevity — hallmarks of its unique terroir. The region’s Smaragd classification denotes wines of higher ripeness and concentration, yet even these powerful expressions retain remarkable precision and freshness.

The tasting highlighted several striking examples of Riesling’s range in Wachau. Ried Bier 2023 (Weingut PAX) impressed with layers of yellow fruit, petrol notes, and long, focused acidity. Ried Hochrain 2024 (Weingut Franz Hirtzberger) showed classic elegance and balance, with a seamless interplay between varietal purity and texture. Ried Kollmitz 2024 (Weinhofmeisterei Mathias Hirtzberger) stood out for its poised evolution of controlled petrol and mineral tones, while Ried Vorderseiber 2024 (Weingut Holzapfel) displayed bright floral and pear notes, hinting at graceful ageing potential.

Across these wines, Wachau’s signature is unmistakable — a dialogue between rock, river, and ripeness, where Riesling reveals its most crystalline form. Even the softer, fruitier expressions, like Ried Rothenberg 2024 (Weingut Urbanushof Paul Stierschneider), maintain the region’s hallmark structure, proving that Wachau’s vineyards continue to set the standard for purity and finesse in Austrian white wine.

Conclusion: Austria in Layers

Tasting 560 ÖTW Erste Lagen wines was more than an exploration of vineyards — it was a journey through Austria’s landscapes and identity. From the crystalline whites of the Danube Valley to the refined reds of the east, each wine spoke clearly of its place. What emerged was not uniformity, but authenticity — a shared respect for terroir expressed through diverse voices. The Erste Lagen classification confirms Austria’s standing as a mature wine nation: rooted in tradition, yet forward-looking and full of life. Ultimately, these wines tell a story of place — of soils, stones, and time — layered together to form the living character of Austrian wine today.