Meet Trebbiano Spoletino: Montefalco’s White Counterpoint to Sagrantino
In a land long celebrated for the power of its reds, a once-forgotten white grape is quietly reclaiming its place at the table. Trebbiano Spoletino, Montefalco’s luminous counterpart to the mighty Sagrantino, enchants with its elegance, versatility, and depth. Though its name recalls the ubiquitous Trebbiano Toscano, the two share no kinship — modern DNA studies confirm that Spoletino is a variety entirely its own, native to the hills between Spoleto and Montefalco. Once nearly lost to time, it now rises as a symbol of Umbria’s authenticity and terroir, a grape whose voice is finally being heard again.
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The wine producers of Montefalco (photo by Pier Paolo Metelli) |
A Hidden Treasure of Montefalco In Montefalco, the heart of Umbria, vineyards stretch across sun-drenched slopes long dominated by Sagrantino, the region’s muscular, age-worthy red. Yet just beyond the shadow of those dark, tannic wines, another story has been unfolding, that of Trebbiano Spoletino, a local white variety that’s fast becoming the pride of Montefalco’s winemaking community. Though it shares the “Trebbiano” name, Spoletino is a grape apart — genetically distinct and far more expressive than its more common relatives. Native to the lands between Spoleto and Montefalco, it was once trained on trees in the traditional vite maritata system and nearly vanished as modern viticulture took over. Its revival, led by a new generation of passionate producers, has revealed a grape that embodies the balance of Montefalco itself: ancient roots, modern spirit. If Sagrantino is Montefalco’s muscle, Trebbiano Spoletino is its soul. |
A Winemaker’s Canvas of Possibilities
Trebbiano Spoletino’s resurgence is due in large part to its extraordinary adaptability. Depending on the vinification method, it can express strikingly different personalities — a true chameleon that keeps both winemakers and drinkers intrigued.
When fermented in stainless steel, Spoletino shows its most immediate, youthful side — crisp, mineral, and alive with citrus, pear, and wildflower aromas. Oak aging coaxes out a richer, rounder dimension, layering hints of honey, vanilla, and spice. In contrast, skin-contact or amphora-fermented versions embrace texture and depth, developing amber tones, herbal notes, and a subtle tannic grip that appeals to lovers of orange and natural wines.
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Le Cimate stainless steel vats |
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Antonelli Winery barrel room |
This ability to morph between styles has turned Trebbiano Spoletino into a playground for experimentation in Montefalco. Each winemaker’s interpretation adds another voice to a growing symphony of styles — proof that this grape can be as fresh or as complex as one dares to make it.
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Ceramic amphorae at Antonelli Winery |
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Briziarelli Winery barrel room |
Montefalco’s Masters of Reinvention
Across Montefalco and Spoleto, a handful of pioneering producers are redefining what Trebbiano Spoletino can be. At Antonelli, the grape takes center stage in multiple expressions: the oak-aged Trebium exudes texture and depth, while Vigna Tonda, fermented with skin contact in ceramic amphora, reveals Spoletino’s rustic, soulful edge. The estate even crafts a Metodo Classico sparkling version, proving the variety’s surprising affinity for bubbles.
At Cantina Scacciadiavoli, tradition meets innovation with a Spoleto DOC Trebbiano Spoletino fermented and aged in amphorae and untoasted barrels. The result bridges minerality and richness, with delicate oxidative nuances that nod to ancient techniques. Like Antonelli, they also spumantize Trebbiano Spoletino at dosage zero, showcasing the grape’s versatility and natural vibrancy.
Producers such as Fongoli and Romanelli are taking Spoletino into deeper, more textural territory through long fermentations and extended skin contact. Fongoli, a biodynamic family estate, leads with its Maceratum, which undergoes about fifteen days of skin contact with indigenous yeasts and minimal intervention, yielding amber-hued wines full of herbal and exotic fruit notes, savory depth, and a subtle tannic backbone. Romanelli, meanwhile, favors prolonged fermentations to draw out texture and nuance, crafting wines that balance richness with the grape’s innate freshness and energy. Fongoli’s Biancofongoli, a blend of Trebbiano Spoletino and Grechetto, further illustrates how vibrancy and complexity can coexist in perfect harmony.
At Cantina Ninni, purity and terroir take the spotlight. Wines like Misluli and Poggio del Vescovo are unfiltered, naturally fermented, and organically farmed. Fermented spontaneously without selected yeasts, often in large wooden casks, with periods of carbonic maceration on whole clusters, they emerge vivid and expressive — citrusy and nutty, laced with spice, and marked by lively acidity and a distinctive sapid edge that speaks clearly of Spoleto’s soils and microclimate.
Azienda Agricola De Conti offers a bridge to history with Il Maritato, crafted from old vines still trained in the traditional vite maritata system. The wine embodies the age-old traditions of Montefalco’s grape-growing heritage, exuding herbal and saline notes, with hints of honey and chamomile and a gentle oxidative lift.
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A surviving 200-year old Trebbiano Spoletino grape vine in the vite maritata system at Cantina Ninni |
Trebbiano Spoletino is reshaping Montefalco’s identity, proving the region is more than just the home of Sagrantino. These whites, both authentic and experimental, reveal the depth of the limestone soils, the warmth of the Umbrian sun, and the creativity of the winemakers.
The grape is expressed in several ways: single-variety wines, Trebbiano Spoletino Superiore, Spumante, and Passito, each highlighting different facets of its personality. Spoleto Bianco, in contrast, is a blended style, combining Trebbiano Spoletino with other local white varieties to showcase versatility and balance.
From the fresh, floral notes of Cantina Ninni, to the textured, adventurous Maceratum of Fongoli, and the heritage-driven Il Maritato of Agricola De Conti, Montefalco Spoletino offers a spectrum that is both wide and exhilarating. Each bottle tells a story — of terroir, history, and innovation. In Montefalco today, the conversation no longer ends with Sagrantino — it begins with Trebbiano Spoletino.
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Di Filippo’s method of vineyard cultivation with horses |