A Table in Testaccio: Discovering Rome at Romeo

Posted by Rowena Dumlao Rowena Dumlao - Giardina 10/27/2025

A Table in Testaccio: Discovering Rome at Romeo

In the most genuine of Rome’s neighborhoods, Testaccio, where daily life unfolds between market stalls, neighborhood bars, and the hum of local conversation, Romeo, founded by Massimo Scordino, opened its doors this past March. The restaurant fits naturally into the area’s rhythm — a place that doesn’t chase trends or reinterpret tradition, but simply honors it. It celebrates true Roman identity through honest cooking, convivial energy, and the kind of warmth that feels instinctively familiar to anyone who’s ever sat at a Roman family table. With its 150 seats, a spacious outdoor area, and a welcoming, informal atmosphere, Romeo is designed as a place where you come to eat well and stay because it feels like home.

Every detail contributes to that sense of belonging: checkered tablecloths, freshly baked bread, and the unmistakable aroma of simmering sauce that fills the room. At Romeo, cooking isn’t about presentation or excess, it’s about respect for ingredients and tradition, a straightforward approach that lets the flavors speak for themselves. The result is food that feels both rooted and real, a reminder of why Roman cuisine continues to endure and comfort, bringing people together through the simple joy of sharing a meal.

Massimo Scordino, proprietor

Menu: Spirit of Roman Cooking

At Romeo, the menu celebrates the soul of Roman cooking, offering dishes that reflect the city’s rich culinary identity. The antipasti (priced between €10 and €20) set the tone from the classic tagliere of local salumi and cheeses to a playful reimagining of the city’s beloved maritozzo. These soft, pillowy buns come in both savory and sweet versions: filled with coda alla vaccinara or with stracciatella, puntarelle, and sweet-and-sour onions. The sweet maritozzi — especially the one brimming with fresh cream and strawberries (€8) — are irresistibly light and indulgent, a dessert well worth saving room for.

The great Roman pastas are the heart of the kitchen. Handmade tonnarelli, fatti in casa and priced between €14 and €16, come dressed in the timeless sauces of Roman cuisine: cacio e pepe, carbonara, gricia, and amatriciana. On Thursdays, in true Roman tradition, the kitchen serves handmade gnocchi, soft and comforting, a weekly ritual that locals know well.

For main courses (€15–22), expect Roman classics like saltimbocca, oxtail stew, boiled meatballs, and roasted veal breast alla fornara — dishes prepared with the straightforward respect for ingredients that defines the restaurant’s philosophy. The wine list completes the experience, spotlighting Lazio producers such as Mottura, Castel de Paolis, and Carpineti, alongside a curated selection of Italian labels that strike a thoughtful balance between tradition and contemporary taste.

Pizza: Crisp, Thin, and True to Rome

Equal attention is given to Roman-style pizza, paper-thin and crisp, baked in a wood-fired oven. The dough and recipes are crafted under the guidance of Daniele Di Grazia, a third-generation baker who showed exceptional talent from a young age. After working in his family bakery, he joined Gabriele Bonci, where he became head of baking, and today he is both a teacher of pizza and baking and one of the most influential names in the world of gourmet pizza alla pala. Daniele also consults for multiple restaurants and companies, bringing his expertise to every creation.

Danilele di Grazia, pizzaiolo

Prices range from €9 to €16, spanning timeless classics and inventive options. Highlights include the Giallona, with provola, yellow datterino tomatoes, stracciatella, basil, and black pepper, and the Alicetta, topped with anchovies, stracciatella, and Taggiasca olive crumble.

Other standout choices include Puntarelle e Alici (€16), focaccia with Roman-style puntarelle, anchovy fillets, stracciatella, and sweet-and-sour onions; Zucca (€15), with pumpkin cream, provola, cardoncelli mushrooms, Guanciale San Rocco, and parsley; Cotto e Chips (€14), featuring fiordilatte mozzarella, herb-cooked ham, potato chips with pepper and rosemary, and parmesan fondue; and Broccoli e Salame (€13), with broccoli, spicy salami, and Roman-style turnip greens (cime di rapa romanesco). Each pizza reflects the same dedication to quality, balance, and Roman flavor that defines all of Romeo’s kitchen offerings.