Assisi: History Underfoot, the Future at La Locanda del Cardinale

Posted by Rowena Dumlao Rowena Dumlao - Giardina 12/16/2025

Assisi: History Underfoot, the Future at La Locanda del Cardinale

La Locanda del Cardinale has always been one of those places in Assisi where time seems to slow down. Set inside Palazzo del Cardinale, just a few steps from Piazza del Comune and the Basilica of Saint Clare, the restaurant has long been known for its rare ability to blend history, elegance, and serious gastronomy. Today, however, there’s a fresh reason to walk through its heavy wooden doors. A new chef is steering the kitchen into a new phase.

Since 2025, the culinary direction has been entrusted to Nicola Cascini, a young Umbrian chef with a clear vision and strong local roots. Born in Foligno in 1998, Cascini represents a new generation that respects tradition without being constrained by it. His appointment marks a natural evolution for La Locanda del Cardinale, one that feels contemporary, focused, and full of assured creativity.

Layers Of Time Beneath Palazzo Del Cardinale

The story of La Locanda del Cardinale is inseparable from the history of Palazzo del Cardinale, one of Assisi’s most remarkable historic buildings. Built in 1549, the palace was originally the residence of Cardinal Bartolomeo Roverella and later passed to influential Assisi families, including the Bensi and the Counts Fiumi. Today, the restaurant’s location remains one of its greatest assets, just steps from Piazza del Comune and the Basilica of Saint Clare.

Beneath the dining rooms lies an even older layer of history. During renovation works in the palace’s basement, owner Roberto Damaschi set out to create an underground wine cellar to house one of the most comprehensive collections in Umbria. What emerged, however, was extraordinary: the remains of a Roman domus dating back to the late first century BC. The centerpiece is a two-thousand-year-old floor, crafted using a mixed technique of lithic-based cement and colored glass paste tesserae, arranged in elegant geometric designs. Further excavations revealed that the site continued to be significant for centuries, with pottery fragments and ceramic materials from the 6th–7th centuries AD indicating ongoing use and occupation.

Today, these layers of history are preserved beneath transparent glass floors, allowing diners to experience the past while seated above it. The interiors echo this layered story. Renaissance frescoes adorn the noble floor, stone walls frame the cellar, and the ancient Roman ruins below create an atmosphere that is refined, elegant, and timeless. Dining here is never just about the food; it is about inhabiting centuries of Assisi’s cultural and architectural heritage.

A New Culinary Voice Rooted In Umbria

At the heart of La Locanda del Cardinale is Nicola Cascini, a young Umbrian chef born in Foligno in 1998, bringing a contemporary vision to regional cuisine. His philosophy is simple: “Start with the product, respect it, and present it in an essential, contemporary way. I prefer to remove rather than add.” The result is clean, balanced, and expressive dishes, grounded in technique rather than excess.

Chef Nicola Cascini

Cascini trained at the Assisi Hospitality Institute and the prestigious ALMA Advanced Course, then gained experience internationally at Le Bistrot in France, the North Cape on Elba, and in Milan alongside Antonello Colonna. Returning to Umbria, he led the kitchen at Gus in Foligno for three years before joining La Locanda del Cardinale in October 2024 as chef de partie. Within months, he became head chef, bringing a fresh energy and clear contemporary identity to the kitchen.

Under his leadership, the restaurant now offers Umbrian flavors rooted in tradition, reinterpreted with precision, authenticity, and modern flair. Cascini’s cuisine pairs seamlessly with the extensive wine list and the historic setting, creating a dining experience that is both timeless and forward-looking.

A Wine Cellar Worth The Descent

Wine remains central to the experience. La Locanda del Cardinale’s cellar is among the most impressive in the region, featuring over 1,000 Italian and international labels, including prestigious names and rare vintages. Housed in an atmospheric stone cellar beneath the restaurant, the collection plays a key role in shaping the dining experience and is designed to pair seamlessly with Cascini’s focused, modern cuisine.

Together, the historic setting, the new culinary direction, and the exceptional wine program define a restaurant that feels both rooted and forward-looking. It’s a place that honors its past while confidently moving into the future.